Lash Industry Buzzword Definitions: Part 2

This is the second installment of our lash industry glossary, and if you haven't read Part 1, I'd recommend starting there. I'm Jenelle Paris, founder of Lash Affair, and as the industry evolves, so does its vocabulary. Here are more terms every lash professional should know — from advanced techniques to business concepts that affect how you run your studio.

Advanced Lash Techniques

Wet Look / Spike Lashes — A styling trend where lash fans are intentionally closed or narrow to create the appearance of wet, clumpy lashes. This is an aesthetic choice, not a flaw in fanning technique. Artists achieve it by using narrower fans or pinching volume fans at the base before application.

Wispy Lashes — A hybrid-style map that incorporates longer spike lashes at staggered intervals for a textured, feathery finish. Wispy sets are extremely popular because they look both dramatic and effortless. The key is intentional randomness in your lash mapping.

Bottom Lash Extensions — Extensions applied to the lower lash line for a more complete, editorial look. These require an even lighter touch than upper lashes, using very fine diameters (0.03–0.05mm) and short lengths (4–7mm). They're a great upsell service for clients wanting extra definition.

Lash Lift — A semi-permanent treatment that curls natural lashes using a chemical solution and silicone rod. Unlike extensions, lash lifts work with what the client already has. Many artists offer both services — lifts for low-maintenance clients and extensions for those wanting added length and fullness.

Product and Material Terms

PBT Fiber — Polybutylene terephthalate, the synthetic material most quality lash extensions are made from. Despite marketing terms like "mink" or "silk," nearly all professional extensions are PBT. The differences between brands come down to the quality of the fiber, the taper, and the curl consistency.

Taper — The gradual thinning at the tip of a lash extension. A natural-looking taper mimics how real lashes narrow at the end. Poorly made extensions have blunt or uneven tips that look artificial. This is one of the biggest quality differentiators between lash suppliers.

Curl Types (J, B, C, CC, D, L, M) — Letters designating the curvature of lash extensions. J is the straightest, D is the most dramatic curl. L and M curls have a flat base with a sharp upward bend, ideal for clients with hooded or downturned eyes. Knowing when to use each curl type is essential for effective lash mapping.

Adhesive Viscosity — How thick or thin a lash adhesive is. Thinner adhesives (lower viscosity) are faster-drying and preferred by experienced artists. Thicker adhesives give more working time but can create visible adhesive dots if over-applied. Matching viscosity to your skill level and speed is important.

Environment and Workspace Terms

Hygrometer — A device that measures humidity in your workspace. Since cyanoacrylate adhesives cure with moisture, monitoring humidity (ideally 45–65%) is critical for consistent retention. Every professional lash room should have one.

Dehumidifier / Humidifier — Equipment used to control workspace moisture levels. Too much humidity causes adhesive to cure too fast (shock polymerization), while too little humidity slows curing. Controlling your environment is one of the most impactful things you can do for retention consistency.

Business and Client Terms

Consultation — The conversation before a lash service where you assess the client's natural lashes, discuss their desired look, review allergies or sensitivities, and set expectations. A thorough consultation prevents miscommunication and builds trust from the first appointment.

Patch Test — Applying a small number of extensions 24–48 hours before a full set to check for allergic reactions. While not universally required, patch tests are recommended for new clients, especially those with sensitive skin or a history of allergies. Having proper aftercare supplies available is part of responsible client care.

Upselling — Offering additional services or products during an appointment. In the lash industry, this might include bottom lash extensions, lash-safe aftercare products, or upgraded sets (classic to volume). Done well, upselling adds value for the client and increases your average ticket.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between "mink" and "silk" lashes?

In most cases, these are marketing terms rather than material descriptions. The vast majority of professional lash extensions — whether labeled mink, silk, or faux mink — are made from PBT synthetic fiber. The real differences between products come from fiber quality, curl memory, taper, and finish (matte vs. glossy). I always recommend focusing on those specs rather than the marketing name.

Do I really need a hygrometer in my lash room?

Absolutely. I consider it essential equipment, not optional. Humidity fluctuations are the number one reason for inconsistent retention that artists can't otherwise explain. A reliable hygrometer costs under $20 and gives you the data you need to troubleshoot adhesive performance. We keep one in every training room at Lash Affair.

How do I choose the right curl type for a client?

Start with the client's eye shape and natural lash direction. Downturned or hooded eyes often benefit from L or M curls that lift from the base. Almond or round eyes work well with C and D curls. The goal is to enhance the client's natural features, not fight against them. Practice with different curls on a mannequin head before experimenting on clients.