Lashing blondes can be difficult
Their lashes tend to be hard to see. Some lashes may get glued together just because they blend in so well with the pad it can be hard to isolate correctly. Here are some tips to help those beach blondes fall in love with their lashes without giving you a headache!
1| GEL PAD APPLICATION IS KEY
Blondes tend to have short bottom lashes that can vary in color from brown to white. They can be hard to spot and will easily slip out from underneath the gel pads. I typically use the gel pads to secure the inner corner and use 3M surgical tape to secure the outer corner. This prevents you from getting those annoying stickies; when the bottom and top lashes get glued together. After I apply the gel pad, I always have the client close their eyes and ask if they are comfortable in that resting position. I then lift up their top lid a bit to ensure the gel pad and tape are not creeping up into their eye. LashMaps available in the SHOP.
Here is a demonstration of how I apply the BioGel Under Eye Pads to my clients. I prefer to apply with the eyes closed as it usually requires less adjustments because it is closest to their natural resting position.
2| MARK IT
Really blonde, nearly white, lashes can blend in with the gel pad and make it hard to isolate. In those instances, I will take a pink marker and shade along the gel pad under the lash line to help them show up better. This helps ensure that a white baby lash isn't getting stuck while placing the extension on an adult lash. Rumor has it that Lash Affair will be releasing a pink gel pad to take this step out and make it easier to lash blondes.
3| GET THE INNERS
The inner corner can be the most frustrating on any client, but especially on blondes. Those baby lashes can sneak under the gel pad or be frustrating to isolate when they seem to be going different directions. I like to take a bit of 3M surgical tape and lightly pull from the middle of the lid outward, so it spreads out the lashes in the inner corner. This makes them much easier to see and isolate in order to correctly place the extension.
4| IT'S ALL ABOUT THE BASE
It's important to get the extension as close to the base of the lash as possible, just 1-2mm off the skin. This helps to create a seamless transition between the light colored natural lash and the darker extension. A darker lash line means the appearance of thicker lashes that my clients like to flaunt without anyone knowing they have extensions on. The Perfect Fit are my favorite tweezers for classic or volume application!
5| FROST THE WHOLE CAKE
Have you ever cut into a layered cake and found there was no frosting in between the layers? I hope not, as that would be hugely disappointing. Well, natural lashes grow in layers too, usually top, middle and bottom. I always cut my gel pad in half and use it to lift the top layers out of the way so I can adhere extensions flush with the base on the bottom layers. That way when the client opens their eyes, they aren't disappointed to find little blonde lashes that were missed.
6| ADD-ON OPTIONS
During my consult with a blonde client, I offer to apply some bottom lash extensions so that, their eyes look more balanced and not too heavy on top. If they want to add this service, and if I have time, I will perform a bottom lash application after the full set or fill is complete. I apply bottom extensions by placing the gel pad underneath the bottom lashes and using another gel pad to lift the top lashes up, just like I do to reach the lower lash layer but this time I get all the lashes out of the way. For a natural look, I place one bottom lash extension every 3-4 natural lashes. For a more dramatic look, I put one extension per every 1-2 natural lashes.
At a client's consultation, I will recommend a lash tint if their lashes are blonde and long. Short blonde lashes will often be concealed by the extension placed on it, but longer lashes can peek out through the extensions. This application will cause lack of uniformity in a set and will also affect the overall darkness of the set. I have tinted before a full set or a fill and have not seen a difference in retention. On this particular client, I used Belmacil tint in black and Love Potion Adhesive.
Many blondes, especially if they are over 50, are frustrated with their natural lashes, and that's why they are coming to you. Although classic lashes can be full and beautiful on a young girl with full, long, dark natural lashes, the same set can fall flat on a blonde with sparse natural lashes. This risk for disappointment is why I always do a consult with all new clients and analyze their lashes and their expectations, so that, I can recommend the best look for that individual. This client was looking to enhance her beautiful blue eyes while speeding up her morning makeup routine. She also had issues in the past with retention when she had classic lashes. So I recommended that we do a combination set of classic and volume lashes to give her natural texture, without overwhelming her eye. As well, I offered bottom extensions to remove the need to apply any mascara during her morning routine.
Did I miss anything? Would love for you to share your tips and tricks for lashing blondes in the comments below. Many of these tricks I've adopted, were learned from asking questions of co-workers, employers and on lash forums. If you don't know something, are frustrated or seem to have reached a dead end, don't be afraid to put yourself out there. Someone else is probably wondering the same thing, and the worst thing you can do is to stay quiet. The lash artist community really is, a community. I remember struggling so much, I was ready to throw in the towel, but with practice and coaching I got out of my slump and have since become a confident and skilled artist, ready to take on any challenge. I, and many others know that pain and are inspired to give what we've learned to you.
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